Crabitats for Newbies
- Joshiewowa
- Zygote
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Re: Crabitats for Newbies
I have recently got a crab, had him for about a week, hes been in a 3 gallon tank until my dad can find his old, larger aquarium.Would it kill/hurt my hermit crab for him to be in the 3 gallon for, say,another week?
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- Wai
- Administrator
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- Joshiewowa
- Zygote
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 27 Jun 2012, 02:41
- Gender: Male
- Hermit crabs: 1
- Total gallons: 23
- Total tanks: 2
Re: Crabitats for Newbies
Thanks, me and my dad looked for his old 20 gallon aquarium, and we seem to remember throwing it out a while ago because it was cracked. So now I have the option of buying a 20 gallon for my hermie, or cleaning out my dad's other old 55 gallon aquarium. I think I'll probably go with buying the 20!
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- Zygote
- Posts: 5
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Re: Crabitats for Newbies
Hello there,
So I'm looking at tank designs and types, and it seems the general consensus/typical tank is a long horizontal one. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of space to accommodate such a large-bottomed tank, let alone its accompanying isolation tank, so I was thinking up solutions and I came up with this possibility:
A tall, vertical tank that has the same or similar gallon capacity as a horizontal one. Kind of like a hermit crab apartment building.
The plan would be to build a small-bottomed tall tank with multiple climbing tiers to make full use of the height, with the appropriate depth of substrate at the bottom and baths/water dishes on one or more of the tier levels, as well as other necessities (a food level, etc). I've heard hermies like to climb a lot so I figured the levels (plus accompanying stairs, nets, etc) would be fun for them. The tiers would be like sliding trays (more on that below), with about an inch-tall wall lining their edges, excepting the substrate levels, which would have walls of 6.5-7 inches. As an optional add-on, trays could have a secondary inner wall in the center, circular shaped, to form a sort of skylight, to maximize the amount of light that gets to all levels (I say optional, because depending on where the light source of the tank is directed, the levels themselves could stop light from getting to the lower tiers.
One of the main tall walls would be an openable door, and from there the level trays could be slid out for water changes, food, cleaning, letting the hermies have some outside time, etc.
As for the isolation tank, I was thinking a secondary level of substrate that could have a slidable door over the stairway, so if a crab is molting, I can seal out the other crabs from that level and let the molter do its thing in peace; sort of like the use of a small plastic tank inside the larger that most people seem to do.
If this is even a viable crabitat idea, what would be the smallest acceptable base size to keep my future hermies happy? I'm thinking of getting about two small ones, MAYBE (big big maybe) three.
Also, what would be a good way of regulating heat and lighting in such a tall space?
A draft drawing is in the link.
http://rieccentricity.tumblr.com/post/1 ... estthisout
Thanks for your advice!
So I'm looking at tank designs and types, and it seems the general consensus/typical tank is a long horizontal one. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of space to accommodate such a large-bottomed tank, let alone its accompanying isolation tank, so I was thinking up solutions and I came up with this possibility:
A tall, vertical tank that has the same or similar gallon capacity as a horizontal one. Kind of like a hermit crab apartment building.

The plan would be to build a small-bottomed tall tank with multiple climbing tiers to make full use of the height, with the appropriate depth of substrate at the bottom and baths/water dishes on one or more of the tier levels, as well as other necessities (a food level, etc). I've heard hermies like to climb a lot so I figured the levels (plus accompanying stairs, nets, etc) would be fun for them. The tiers would be like sliding trays (more on that below), with about an inch-tall wall lining their edges, excepting the substrate levels, which would have walls of 6.5-7 inches. As an optional add-on, trays could have a secondary inner wall in the center, circular shaped, to form a sort of skylight, to maximize the amount of light that gets to all levels (I say optional, because depending on where the light source of the tank is directed, the levels themselves could stop light from getting to the lower tiers.
One of the main tall walls would be an openable door, and from there the level trays could be slid out for water changes, food, cleaning, letting the hermies have some outside time, etc.
As for the isolation tank, I was thinking a secondary level of substrate that could have a slidable door over the stairway, so if a crab is molting, I can seal out the other crabs from that level and let the molter do its thing in peace; sort of like the use of a small plastic tank inside the larger that most people seem to do.
If this is even a viable crabitat idea, what would be the smallest acceptable base size to keep my future hermies happy? I'm thinking of getting about two small ones, MAYBE (big big maybe) three.
Also, what would be a good way of regulating heat and lighting in such a tall space?
A draft drawing is in the link.
http://rieccentricity.tumblr.com/post/1 ... estthisout
Thanks for your advice!
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- Zoea II
- Posts: 212
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Re: Crabitats for Newbies
This would be very different to other ideas ever proposed Finnian, I think it has a possibility of working if some basic guidelines are put in place - some you have touched on. Could you please specify the height you were thinking of? So 2-3 small crabs. My experience with crabs is that they enjoying on slopes more than vertical ascents, so I would make sure the tank isn't too narrow for this. I would strongly recommend keeping the water dishes, burrowing substrate and preferably the food also on the as this is the most natural form. They may travel up from sea level to moult, but I don't think they would physically climb to do this. i saw that you mentioned most people opt for the long rather than tall, I understand that you do not have much spacce but providing a the most that you can is the best thing to do, even if you did take them out for run time every now and again, it's just not the same. Apologies for the critisism, but I believe it will be better in the long term - I wish I had had this when I started out. I have a taller rather longer tank, and I partially regret it as it is difficult to make the levels (4 at the moment!) appealing for the crabs. Tips for levels... Hmm. Make sure you have TONS of access points of all different forms eg. Wood vs mesh vs plastic vine. Avoid exposure over the levels aka. Make sure the crabs feel safe and hidden. Put up gainst heat source to encourage use. Have lips - as you suggest - to avoid chucking of contents.
- emmac350
- Coenobita
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Re: Crabitats for Newbies
That looks like a great way to keep your future crabs active. If you go with something like that, I'd recommend the size of a 10g on the bottom just so they can get some horizontal movement. Keep in mind that you will end up with crabs buried in your upper levels and probably molting there - I've never been able to catch a crab before they molt...they just sort of disappear for a while. Having a door in one of the tank's sides will be highly necessary to clean everything out and change food/water/decorations.
A few ideas for climbing items - cholla logs are big favorites in my tank, as are palm tree bark and oak bark. I bought some plain hemp thread and knitted a bridge and a bigger piece as a 'climbing wall' that the crabs loved. Check the attachment points though as crabs can be pickers and pull strands from the hemp holding it on. I used tiny 3M hooks for the climbing wall with the pull tabs hidden behind the wall itself. You can buy large chunks of cork too and you might even consider some of the fishtank plastic "plant" covered wall things. Fishtank decorations are other good hiding spots/climbing spots.
A few ideas for climbing items - cholla logs are big favorites in my tank, as are palm tree bark and oak bark. I bought some plain hemp thread and knitted a bridge and a bigger piece as a 'climbing wall' that the crabs loved. Check the attachment points though as crabs can be pickers and pull strands from the hemp holding it on. I used tiny 3M hooks for the climbing wall with the pull tabs hidden behind the wall itself. You can buy large chunks of cork too and you might even consider some of the fishtank plastic "plant" covered wall things. Fishtank decorations are other good hiding spots/climbing spots.
Follow the daily lives of my crabs at thedailyhermit.tumblr.com
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Mommy to:
Rack, 23 Sep 08; Benny, 23 Sep 08; Slightly, 3 Jan 09; Nibs, 3 Jan 09; Curly, 3 Jan 09; Spaz, 5 Jul 09
If you are contacted privately and enticed to join another forum, please inform a moderator. This is an unethical practice.
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- Zygote
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Re: Crabitats for Newbies
I can't do a lot with horizontal space, but the smallest 10g tank I've found has a base of 12x12in.emmac350 wrote:That looks like a great way to keep your future crabs active. If you go with something like that, I'd recommend the size of a 10g on the bottom just so they can get some horizontal movement.
A) is that actually an okay measurement?
B) if so, how much smaller than that is it okay to go? I'm thinking 8x8 would be the best, but if anything, 12x12in is doable.
Yeah, I was worried that that might happen, so I've got two possible solutions:emmac350 wrote:Keep in mind that you will end up with crabs buried in your upper levels and probably molting there - I've never been able to catch a crab before they molt...they just sort of disappear for a while.
1) Keep the actual substrate levels limited to the two molting levels, and line the other tiers with something like moss or (for the water levels) just make it straight-up filled with water.
2) Make less levels, but each of them deep (6.5-7in) and molt-worthy. Doing so would mean that each level would need an isolation door, but I can do that.
As a bit of an alternate to the alternate, if I go with option 2, I might just make a sort of tower of stackable levels (of course, they'd still have stairs etc to connect), and then no matter where the crab decides to molt, instead of sealing off the level I could then just remove it.
I keep hearing cork--is that in reference to actual cork wood, or is cork board an option too?emmac350 wrote:You can buy large chunks of cork too and you might even consider some of the fishtank plastic "plant" covered wall things.
Thanks so much for replying and your advice!
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- Zygote
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Re: Crabitats for Newbies
That all depends on how many levels I end up having, but off the top of my head, it might be about a yard tall.Ginger wrote:This would be very different to other ideas ever proposed Finnian, I think it has a possibility of working if some basic guidelines are put in place - some you have touched on. Could you please specify the height you were thinking of?
Yeah, I was thinking having the stairs at a corner point, so I could make them double-flight instead of single, and therefore minimizing steepness.Ginger wrote:My experience with crabs is that they enjoying on slopes more than vertical ascents, so I would make sure the tank isn't too narrow for this.
No need to apologize, it's a valid point.Ginger wrote:I would strongly recommend keeping the water dishes, burrowing substrate and preferably the food also on the as this is the most natural form. They may travel up from sea level to moult, but I don't think they would physically climb to do this. i saw that you mentioned most people opt for the long rather than tall, I understand that you do not have much spacce but providing a the most that you can is the best thing to do, even if you did take them out for run time every now and again, it's just not the same. Apologies for the critisism, but I believe it will be better in the long term - I wish I had had this when I started out. I have a taller rather longer tank, and I partially regret it as it is difficult to make the levels (4 at the moment!) appealing for the crabs.
The first sentence, however, I think is missing a word, it's a bit confusing.
Trust me, if I was able to, I would totally invest in a long tank. But I live in a small place and I'm going off to college soon...with this idea I'm trying to combine a suitable and comfortable environment for them while still being able to care for them--a compact and transportable terrarium.
And I've heard mixed messages about the climbing--I suppose it's different depending on the crab.

Thank you so much for the tips--I'll be sure to keep those In mind when I'm furnishing the crabitat. Hiding places are a definite.Ginger wrote:Tips for levels... Hmm. Make sure you have TONS of access points of all different forms eg. Wood vs mesh vs plastic vine. Avoid exposure over the levels aka. Make sure the crabs feel safe and hidden. Put up gainst heat source to encourage use. Have lips - as you suggest - to avoid chucking of contents.
Against a heat source...like a wall that has the heat source literally pressed against it?
Thank you for replying, and for your advice!
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- Zoea II
- Posts: 212
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Re: Crabitats for Newbies
Thanks Finnisn, in regards to your question, I meant:
"I would strongly recommend keeping food, water and burrowing substrate at ground level as this presents a more natural form."
"I would strongly recommend keeping food, water and burrowing substrate at ground level as this presents a more natural form."
- aussieJJDude
- Zoea V
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Re: Crabitats for Newbies
I have offered food on the levels and the crabs soon realised that their food was their and they needed to get their lazy butts up the cholla to get something to eat.Ginger wrote:Thanks Finnisn, in regards to your question, I meant:
"I would strongly recommend keeping food, water and burrowing substrate at ground level as this presents a more natural form."
I assume that this would be the same with the other items mentioned; after all; who hasn't heard of all those horror stories of hermit crabs moulting in moss pits?

246L/65G - 'Tidal Jungle' (Crabs) | 246L/65g - 'Backwater Pool' (Fish/Snails) | 96L/25G - ''Twisted Minds" (Fish/Snails/Shrimp) | 300L/90G Fancy Pond (Goldfish)
I've never had any problems with 'Impulse Buying'. They're just animals that I forgot I had planned to get.
I've never had any problems with 'Impulse Buying'. They're just animals that I forgot I had planned to get.