How to keep your 'tat humid

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erikleeson
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How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by erikleeson »

I don't know about you guys but I've seen alot of people needing help on keeping the right humidity in the tank. I'll share my best knowledge on keeping the tank as humid as it should be. :)

First of all, a little ground information. Humidity is how moisture is evaporated into the air. Very dry air has a low humidity. Very moist air has a high humidity. Although hermit crabs have adapted to live on land, they do have gills. These gills are different from gills of any fish or marine creature of some sort. These gills are smaller and hardened and basically modified to breath moist air. Typical house humidity is 40% - 50%. Take a deep breath, does the air feel somewhat moist? Well if it does then that's nothing compared to what hermit crabs need. Hermit crabs in captivity do well with humidity from around 77% - 87%. Although the tank really can't be "too humid" that the crabs have trouble breathing, an extremely humid tank will cause bacteria to easily build up in your tank.

In your tank, buy a hygrometer (also called hydrometer or simply humidity gauge). Whether its a stick on or fancy digital hygrometer, it is vital to accurately determining the humidity. You should also be aware that there are gauges that measure humidity and gauges that measure relative humidity yours probably measures relative humidity. That is what we use to measure. So get one that measures relative humidity. Most gauges at pet stores measure relative humidity, while ones for gardens and cigar keepers may measure exact humidity.

Anyways, for a stick on gauge, keep it as close to the centre of the tank as possible and keep it near the substrate. Make sure the surface is clean and dry when placing it on the glass. With digital gauges, keep the probe near the substrate at the centre as well.

Now for the good stuff. How to keep it humid. Well from my knowledge it goes (from best to worse):

1. Keep the substrate moist. Poke a hole in the sand or coconut fiber and see if you can make a hole without much effort. The substrate should be sand castle consistency. Not dry, not dripping, but relatively wet. Every week or so check to see how moist it is, if its to dry, dump some water into the four corners of the tank very slowly. Don't dump water where a molter has buried, when crabs are molting, it is always a good idea just to mist the substrate rather than drenching it.

2. Have a good lid. A sheet of glass or Plexiglas with some air holes is your best bet. When using heat lights, you should use a screen lid with a full sheet of glass or Plexiglas with a circle cut to fit the diameter of the lamp. Then cut air holes and your good to go. The reason the lid should be like this is because if the tank is closed off as much as possible, not as much humidity can escape. This also prevents crabs from escaping, which believe me, they will try.

3. Mist the tank. Get a large spray bottle that mists, not squirts. Fill with hermie safe water and mist all the sides of the tank, the bottom of the lid, and the substrate. Never mist your crabs themselves. This can stress them out. About once a week, what I like to do is spray everything in the tank like the plants, branches, and shells. This makes it look like it has rained. In the wild, hermit crabs usually come out when it is raining or after is has rained. They usually come out after I do this, especially in the evening.

4. Keep the water bowls full. A primary fact to a humid tank is an evaporative water source. The main one is the substrate, the secondary one is the dishes. This is especially effective when using heat lights.

5. Create moss pits. The crabs like digging and grazing in moss piles. If they are damp they will create an excellent source of moisture. They will keep the tank humid enough to not have to spray the tank as much. Moss does not need to be replaced or cleaned. Just creates pits and piles and keep em wet and that's it.

6. Create this humidifier I thought of. WARNING: this only works with heat lights. Take a small bowl and fill with water, then wrap tightly with saran wrap and poke a hole in the top. Place on the hot side of the tank and voila. Make sure the crabs cannot get in it.

7. Use sponges. I don't really like using sponges, but they can keep the tank humid. When using them, have at least two. Keep them in the water dish, don't dampen them then place on the substrate as they will easily dry out quickly. Placing them in a water dish keeps the wet quite long, and it also helps small crabs get out of the dish. Some crabs even use the sponges as water source themselves. BUT: When using sponges exchange with another sponge every week. Sponges can cause quick bacteria growth and can harm the crabs if not cleaned every week. So once a week place a dry, clean sponge where the old one was than dry out the old one completely and microwave for 20 seconds. This is why I don't like using sponges. 8|

And there you have it. 7 easy ways to keep the tank humid. If you have any other ideas, please post them here. Also please share any positive feedback you have. Thanks, I hope this helps you out! ;)
ERIK LEESON

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ladybug15057
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by ladybug15057 »

Due to only being able to quote one area at a time, I have opted to use quote marks, and place my reply as (M)… (if there is a way to do mutiple quotes in one message, please somebody pm me as how this can be done. Thanks!)

“Although hermit crabs have adapted to live on land, they do have gills. Hermit crabs in captivity do well with humidity from around 77% - 87%. Although the tank really can't be "too humid" that the crabs have trouble breathing, an extremely humid tank will cause bacteria to easily build up in your tank.”

(M)…Where as hermies can slowly suffocate to death and have irreversible damage done to their gills due to a too low humidity level, a too high humidity level can make it difficult for them to breath properly too. 75%-78/80% is a good range for a humidity level as long as one has calibrated/tested their gauge and know that it is reading correctly. Majority of the time when we buy the humidity gauges they are off, and can be up to as much as 20% which is quite a bit when one is providing for a creature who depends on a proper humidity % to breath correctly through their modified gills. With a too high humidity percentage the air is too saturated for the hermies to breath correctly. (similar to an almost drowning type effect) If the humidity level is not corrected, one may note that their hermie begins to blow clear-ish type bubbles from their gills. This is a certain sign of too humid/saturated air. If not corrected this too can do permanent gill damage to hermies. (thanks to Sue, aka RFCrabs for the info) Gills are not one of the body parts that hermies can regenerate through molting.
A too high humidity level will cause bacteria to grow, as well as mold within the tank.

“You should also be aware that there are gauges that measure humidity and gauges that measure relative humidity yours probably measures relative humidity.”


(M)… Majority of the gauges bought do measure relative humidity. The higher dollar gauges, (REALLY high dollar) sometimes will read in actual humidity. If one has one of the super high dollar gauges the humidity % should be about 55%-65%.

“Most gauges at pet stores measure relative humidity, while ones for gardens and cigar keepers may measure exact humidity.”

(M)…The cigar humidity gauges also read relative humidity, not actual humidity.
Cigars

And the lawn and garden gauges read relative humidity too:

Garden


“1. Keep the substrate moist. Poke a hole in the sand or coconut fiber and see if you can make a hole without much effort. The substrate should be sand castle consistency. Not dry, not dripping, but relatively wet.”

(M)….There are numerous crabbers who do keep a damp substrate to help with their humidity within their crabitat. Some also use a container of dampened moss or 100$ coco fiber so if and when a mold complication arises it is easier to change out as opposed to doing a total tank deep clean.
Personally I use an all dry CaribSea Aragonite sand and have done so for a few years with a high success rate too. (and prior to using the CaribSea, I used an all dry sand substrate) There are quite a few of us who use the dry sand, and are able to maintain a proper humidity level.

“Don't dump water where a molter has buried, when crabs are molting, it is always a good idea just to mist the substrate rather than drenching it.”

(M)… Misting the sand does not penetrate down to where the molters are. To help keep the substrate damp (if it is sand) 2-3 drops of dechlor water a day will help with the moisture the burrowed hermie needs.

“2. Have a good lid. A sheet of glass or Plexiglas with some air holes is your best bet. When using heat lights, you should use a screen lid with a full sheet of glass or Plexiglas with a circle cut to fit the diameter of the lamp. This also prevents crabs from escaping, which believe me, they will try.”

(M)…I have screen lids on all my tanks/iso’s and they really do help keep the hermies in the tank, and many pests out of the tank too. I find it amazing to watch my larger straws and Jumbos scale the inside silicone on the corners of the tanks. I find it hard to believe they can grip on that little bit of edging. And I LOVE the Plexiglas I use for my lids! Occasionally I have a tendency of dropping things… and it is so great to look down and see it still in one piece, unlike a glass lid that I would shatter. With the screen lid, I also didn’t have to drill holes in the Plexiglas. I can open and close it as far as I need to help maintain the proper humidity level in my tanks. This way I also have air circulating within the tank that also helps to cut back on mold and bacteria complications.

“3. Mist the tank. Fill with hermie safe water and mist all the sides of the tank, the bottom of the lid, and the substrate.”

(M)…During our first month of crabbing I was told to do this by the pet store. Not knowing I did this and within the first month of our crabbing our tank had a mold problem and our hermies had an infection as well. *cries* We did treat them as ordered, and thank goodness our hermies made it through this! Since then, I do not spray within the tanks or iso’s.

“4. Keep the water bowls full. A primary fact to a humid tank is an evaporative water source.”

(M)…Very true, and why I keep a votive candle holder with marbles in it over the middle of where the UTH is located along with my deep ocean and fresh water ponds at the opposite side of the tank.

“5. Create moss pits. Moss does not need to be replaced or cleaned. Just creates pits and piles and keep em wet and that's it.”

(M)…They should be kept damp (not wet) and changed occasionally for bacteria reasons. There are some good mosses, but there are also some that should not be used with hermies. (they can be and are harmful)


“7. Use sponges. I don't really like using sponges, but they can keep the tank humid. BUT: When using sponges exchange with another sponge every week. Sponges can cause quick bacteria growth and can harm the crabs if not cleaned every week.”

(M)..Sea sponges are a way to help with humidity, but like you I don’t care for them anymore. They should be rinsed at least daily and exchanged for sterile ones at least every 2 days due to mold and bacteria.
You did fairly well with all the input here, and I am sure it will be of some help to others who are struggling with the correct humidity within their crabitat. It can be mind boggling sometimes trying to get things stable in ones tank.

(Edited to correct url)
Marie (aka ladybug15057)

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erikleeson
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by erikleeson »

Lol, thanks for the corrections and stuff. I knew most of what you said and understood the mistakes, but really, I didn't want to write a book.

Most things I wrote give a basic enough knowledge of what I explained. Those looking for intense detail can look into that a little more.

Why don't you spray the tank? It really boosts the humidity and I have no mold problems and I have tons of wood in the tank and even if it does mold, hermits eat dead bird and stuff given the chance, so how's a little mold going to hurt them?
ERIK LEESON

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ladybug15057
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by ladybug15057 »

Many times newer crabbers join forums for help and to read information from other crabbers. I know on a couple other sites I belong to, that there are members who read along, but do not post. Guess it is a 'thing' of mine for this reason to try to dot the i's and cross the t's as much as possible if posting or when reading a post. *|
In the wild hermies are actually scavengers and eat numerous disgusting things this is true. But in the wild there are the variables of mother nature that regardless of how hard we try we cannot simulate in our crabitat's. There are some molds and bacteria that are not harmful to hermies, and actually some bacteria that are beneficial to hermies. But within our warm humid crabitat they can also grow to astronomical levels that can be potentially harmful/lethal to our hermies. Too many times too, it is hard to determine which mold what is, so it is best to do a deep clean and sterilize everything. But even at this sometimes there are some molds that high heats will not kill the mold spores.
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by Chermo »

I wanted to add to remove your hydrometer and temp gauge when spraying the tank. Water will kill them and they won't work anymore. Just replace it when you are done spraying.
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Due to family issues my crabs have been adopted out to wizkidsmom (Cheryl), I know she will care for them like I did. Thanks Cheryl

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erikleeson
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by erikleeson »

Good one Chermo. I experienced this the hard way and had my gauge reading 50% for half a week.

Removing it can make the gauge lose its adhesive. Perhaps just covering it with a small Tupperware container while spraying will do it. And this is unnecessary with digital gauges.
ERIK LEESON

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ladybug15057
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by ladybug15057 »

Removing the gauge does cause the adhesive not to want to stick as securely as it did prior to removal. (I found this out through removing the gauges for deep cleaning) But they do sell industrial strength velcro one can put on the back of the gauges, clean the glass well prior to placing it on the tank wall. They sell the velcro in strips as well as in dots. If one uses the velcro, one would want to make sure not to cover any of the openings on the humidity gauge that can effect its readings. But once the velcro is put on the gauge and stuck to the tank wall, it is very easy to remove in the future too.
The digital gauges should not be subjected to water either, this can also effect their readings.
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by Chermo »

The 2 gauges I have are both on velcro they came that way. I was assuming that they call came on velcro.
Proud mommy of 2 beautiful daughters Kytana and Danica, 1 cat Princess and 1 dog Liebschen

Due to family issues my crabs have been adopted out to wizkidsmom (Cheryl), I know she will care for them like I did. Thanks Cheryl

RIP Orangy June 2009
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ladybug15057
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by ladybug15057 »

The zoomed brand ones I use do come with velcro, but some of the other brands do still have the adhesive. But there were a couple times when even the zoomed brand I bought, when I went to take it off the tank wall, the other dot came off too and didn't want to stick as well. So the dots work great on these. Now with my Jumbos and straws, due to their strength and how feisty they are, they require the industrial strength velcro. :)
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Re: How to keep your 'tat humid

Post by erikleeson »

My gauge came with adhesive, so I will use that. I do have Velcro, but very little. I use it to completely secure the suction cup plants so they don't dangle but looks like real plants. I have those little exo terra plants that stick to the walls with one suction cups. I have about 10 of them and the crabs always climb them so I use Velcro for that. My digital thermometer came with one little Velcro strap to secure the unit onto the glass, but it would always fall off so I had to use an extra piece.

As for removing the hygrometer during misting, mine is so close to the substrate, I have this teeny Tupperware container that I just cover the gauge with while spraying. The gauge stays dry while everything else is moist.
ERIK LEESON

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